Breakfast Slop - Melange du Matin

[Pugpillow]

PLEASE NOTE THE FOLLOWING HAS BEEN UPDATED AS AT JULY, 2010 AND CAN BE FOUND HERE: http://pugvillage.com/forum/dog-food...op-recipe.html


I'm reposting this as a stand-alone thread as I'm finding it difficult to locate in the old threads:

After many years of feeding supposedly high-quality vet-recommended kibble to my pugs, I switched to raw feeding to try to better manage my dog’s extreme allergies and atopical dermatitis which were becoming life-threatening. Kim-Soo had had all the traditional tests, including food screening/elimination (kibble only) and patch tests and it was determined she was allergic to house dust, mites, grass, trees and ragweed, allergens hard for a dog to avoid! For 8 years we gave her bi-weekly allergy shots and spent thousands of dollars on vet and specialist visits and medications such as prednisone, antibiotics and cyclosporine. While useful in the very short term, the side effects of some were horrific (that’s another story!), and the allergies persisted.

Within 3 weeks of switching to raw food, Kimmy’s hot spots and pustules disappeared and her coat became shiny and soft. Within 2 months, her eye goop had almost disappeared and her chronic ear infections improved dramatically. I finished them off with Blue Powder treatment, a home-made remedy I highly recommend. Now at almost 13 years old, she is completely free of allergy symptoms and hasn’t had any medication since she started raw food in the summer of 2005!!!

Since switching, I have done a lot of research and have learned that raw feeding can extend the length and quality of your dog’s life - some say by 30%. I have developed a feeding regimen based on my knowledge to date. I am not an expert in nutrition nor a health professional of any kind, so I urge you to research and experiment for yourself. I just know this works for my dogs. Be aware also that this regimen is for adult dogs with normal health conditions. Those suffering from bladder stones, diabetes, hyper- or hypothyroidism, Cushings’, etc. may need to have their diet modified. I do not recommend it for puppies.

I serve my pugs 2 meals a day – a breakfast slop in the morning and raw meat, poultry, fish or green tripe in the evening. Here’s the recipe for the morning meal:

“Melange du Matin” otherwise known as “Breakfast Slop”)
(makes about 40 – 3 oz. meals; preparation time: approximately 20 minutes)

• 6 lbs ground meat or ground chicken bones (if using the ground bones, omit eggshells)
• 3 cups of pureed veggies/fruit – high % dark green
• 2 ozs. of organ parts - liver, hearts, gizzards
• 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar, preferably organic
• 2 cloves of garlic, crushed
• 1/2 cup of plain no-fat yogurt (containing active bacteria), or kefir
• 2-3 tbsp. ground kelp
• 3 eggs with shells, finely ground
• a handful of fresh parsley, chopped
• 3-4 tbsp. of natural coconut oil
• 1 large can of pure pumpkin (not the pie-filling kind) or equivalent in fresh form

Put all ingredients except ground meat bones and canned pumpkin through a food processor (a worthwhile investment) and when mixed, combine well with meat and pumpkin. Freeze in individual portions. My pugs (weighing approximately from 13 to 23 lbs. each) get 3 oz. in the morning and for dinner get a serving of meat, poultry, fish or tripe (discussed below). I adjust their portions according to whether they need to gain or lose weight.

Here are the benefits of the ingredients:

• meat/poultry is the staple of the recipe and a protein source
• fruits and veggies are a source of fibre, vitamins & minerals and antioxidants. Green leafy veggies are high in vitamin E
• garlic helps prevent blood clots and adds flavour. It should be used in moderation in a canine diet
• apple cider vinegar contains trace minerals; see http://www.lacetoleather.com/wonderdrug.html
• no-fat yoghurt contains Lactobacillis Acidophilus, a good bacteria for the stomach and bowel
• kelp provides iodine which helps the thyroid; omit it if your dog has hyperthyroidism. Kelp is also an antioxidant and source of thyroxine and riboflavin and many other vitamins and minerals.
• eggs with shells: shells are a wonderful source of calcium (carbonate); add them ground (use a coffee grinder). The ground bones are also full of calcium so omit the eggshells when using them.
• parsley: see http://www.whfoods.com/genpage.php?tname=foodspice&dbid=100
• coconut oil: see http://www.mercola.com/2001/mar/24/coconut_oil.htm

To this “mélange”, you can add supplements such vitamin B, vitamin E, cottage cheese, yucca, Wobenzym, slippery elm, bee pollen, calcium carbonate powder (not if using ground bones), grapefruit seed extract, probiotics, etc. I grind with mortar and pestle and add separately whatever each dog needs. The kelp, coconut oil, bee pollen and vitamins can be bought at health food stores and, in some cases, in grocery or big box stores (Walmart, Costco, etc.). Note that freezing damages vitamins B and E. Yucca and Wobenzym are for arthritis. Vitamin B and bee pollen are to boost the immune system. Slippery elm powder is a stomach remedy. Calcium carbonate powder is a necessary calcium supplement if the diet contains predominately phosphorus–rich foods (such as ground meat, poultry, fish and organ tissues) and is deficient in digestible bones. Grapefruit seed extract is for systemic yeast problems. I do not add supplements unless I think necessary for the particular dog. In fact, once stabilized, my dogs get supplements very infrequentlly.

I used to supplement with fish oil but have stopped since using coconut oil. If you prefer fish oil, you can pour the contents of a 1000 mg capsule of Salmon/Wild fish Oil over their portion about 3-4 times a week for an Omega-3 boost. It is cleaned of contaminants which are so often found nowadays in various fish, including farmed fish. Fish and vegetable oils contain long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acids that are prone to oxidation in the body and use up vitamin E to prevent that. So if you do add fish oil, also add Vitamin E as replenishment. Coconut oil, on the other hand, is a saturated fat consisting of short- and medium-chain fatty acids, and does not oxidize easily in the body, so extra vitamin E is not required if there is an adequate amount in the diet. Coconut oil actually enhances the absorption of vitamin E.

Be watchful for allergies such as lactose intolerance (cottage cheese, yoghurt, cheese) and grains (flaxseed, wheat germ, alfalfa etc.). Introduce new ingredients gradually or be prepared for throw-ups/diarrhea/constipation for a while as the stomach adjusts to becoming more acidic. By the way, canned pure pumpkin (not the pie filling kind) or slippery elm powder are great to regularize bowel movements and are fantastic overall for dogs.

Raw meaty bones (digestible) should make up about 50-60% of the total diet (for high calcium content). The key word in this phrase is “meaty”. 20-30% should consist of meat/poultry/fish and organs (preferably including green tripe). About 10% should be veggies and fruit (preferably over-ripe) and the rest should be eggs, oils and supplements. Another way to look at it is to imagine how a wild dog or wolf eats. They will kill or find prey and devour the whole carcass – meat, bones and innards. You can think of what they eat in these terms – approximately 10-15% is digestible bone and 10-15% is offal (organs); the rest is meat. Don’t try to overthink the proportions. Just try to mimic what they would eat in nature, with the emphasis on raw meat. Don’t overdo the organs or you will have loose bowel problems.

Dogs have no need for carbohydrates in their diet and I avoid grains completely because of their allergenic properties. Some raw feeders claim that fruit and vegetables have no part to play in canine nutrition. While not absolutely necessary,partly digested vegetables and fruit are found in the stomachs of prey, and I believe that they are a good source of fibre in the diet, contain vitamins and minerals, and provide cancer-fighting antioxidants. And the dogs love them – ever watch a dog rooting around for rotten fruit under an apple tree?

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[Pugpillow]

Every batch of slop is different (depending on what’s on sale or in the house) but each contains a high proportion of green leafy stuff. The veggies I choose from for the pureed mixture include romaine, spinach (preferably organic), Swiss chard, bok choy, collards, green beans, peas (not many), carrots, celery, cucumber, parsnips, sweet potato, squash, bean sprouts, etc. Often I will freeze leftovers from raw veggies we serve (particularly leftover undressed salad or crudités) and use these; it doesn’t matter if they go all soggy when they defrost as they are going into a puree anyway. You can also use potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants and peppers (capiscum) unless your dogs have arthritis, respiratory problems or any signs of inflammation, swelling or mucous. Don’t overfeed cruciferous veggies (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, kale, watercress, radishes, rutabagas/turnips) as they can lower thyroid function. Fruits can be melons, peeled apples (not too much – acidic), bananas, blueberries (not too many to avoid diarrhea), cranberries (not too much, but good for the urinary system) and pear. Not grapes nor raisins as these are toxic over time. If your dog has thyroid problems, I would avoid fruits and veggies until you know which ones are okay; most of them aren’t. Also, if your dog has kidney problems or urinary stones/infections, you need to modify this diet.

Pureeing veggies and fruits enables the body to absorb the nutrients so all those vitamins and minerals don’t end up on your lawn. My pugs only poop once a day, occasionally twice, because their bodies are processing the food efficiently. The only solid veggies and fruit I serve are for treats and are frequently dehydrated (a slice of sweet potato, turnip, apple or pear). I NEVER give dog biscuits as most contain grains, to which many dogs are really allergic, and sugar. Occasionally I treat with dehydrated chicken livers (maximum 2 because they are so rich and too many will cause diarrhea). Instead of rawhide chews (which can cause intestinal problems and choking), I give them strips of dehydrated white tripe; they don’t last as long, but they’re better for them. I avoid Greenies like the plague.

I pour the breakfast slop mixture into large ice cube trays (IKEA has some good rubber ones that hold 3 oz cubes) and freeze. Serve defrosted. In the morning, when I take their breakfast out of the fridge, I move another batch from the freezer to the fridge so it’s ready for the next day (it defrosts well and safely in the fridge). I do the same with the evening meal – as I’m serving the meal, I get the next night’s meal out of the freezer so it can defrost in the fridge for 24 hours.

For dinner, the dogs get meat, poultry, fish (twice a week) or green tripe (usually mixed with something). Raw meaty bones (e.g. raw chicken drumsticks) should account for some of these meals. Make sure they get a wide range of meats/poultry/fish – choose from chicken, beef (freeze at least 72 hours to destroy bacteria), pork (same), lamb, rabbit, turkey, duck, goose, deer, venison, goat, bison, oxtails, etc. Ethnic butchers are good sources for the more “exotic” meats. Avoid uninspected venison (i.e. direct from hunters) as there is a parasite in many deer in Ontario; also, it is illegal to buy from unauthorized sources.

Some dogs are allergic to some meats – it’s trial and error. But don’t assume that they are allergic if they throw up a food for the first time; it takes a while for the stomach to develop the different digestive enzymes necessary to process raw foods, if they’re not used to it. Dogs are not vulnerable to bacteria such as salmonella unless their immune system is highly compromised; just think about them burying and digging up bones weeks later! However, because of human vulnerability, make sure you use proper hygiene practices when dealing with raw meat. And I don’t let them kiss me right after a meal!

Meat and bones (wings/thighs, neck/backs/spines etc.) should always be served RAW, never cooked. Cooked bones splinter and can choke and kill your dog. Bone is important for the calcium content and to keep their teeth free of tartar. Some people avoid serving weight-bearing bones such as thigh but I don’t worry about chicken and turkey thighs unless the poultry is free-range (the fowl have stronger bones). Except for marrow bones (too big to swallow) and long lamb bones, they eat most boney things up completely. Marrow bones and lamb bones are mainly for recreation rather than calcium intake. They love them. So do I because they keep the dogs occupied for quite a while. Don’t worry about the fat on the bones; unlike for humans, the fat is processed easily by their acidic digestive system (if they are eating raw). Of course, a steady diet of high fat intake can lead to pancreatitis, so moderation is the key. Bones and raw food are messy and ugly so feed them outside or confined to a cleanable space. Caution: always supervise the dogs closely when eating bones. I cannot stress this too much. If you have a “gulper”, you may have to hold the bone while they learn to chew at it. I often take their bones away if they become too small, too sharp or of a shape that I consider could cause blockage/choking. I also remove their recreational lamb bones when I am not around.

A variety of proteins in the diet builds better muscle mass, including the heart. Here’s what I’ve fed mine so far:
· chicken: any part - wings, thighs, necks or backs (carcasses), breast or leg meat, organs; I get ground meaty chicken bones from the abatoir for 50 cents/lb for the basis of the breakfast slop.
· turkey: any part - wings, thighs, necks or backs (carcasses), breast or leg meat, organs; raw turkey bones tend to be large and sharp after chewed for a while, even when uncooked. I take them away when they get too sharp or small enough to swallow whole.
· pork: pork spines (also messy and need close supervision); ground pork (also used for breakfast slop), picnic shoulder, chops etc.
· beef: marrow bones, heart, stewing beef, ground beef (also used for breakfast slop), riblets, etc.
· lamb: stew bones, shanks, ground
· rabbit: meaty bones and meat
· goat: meaty bones. Supervise the eating of these very closely!!!!

Every couple of weeks, they get defrosted fresh “green” (unbleached) tripe, a truly great source of nourishment. Beware - it stinks !! You buy the whole stomach and have it cut up as small as possible, then you cut it into bite-size small portions, a nasty job but worthwhile for your dogs as it is a wonderful source of Omega-3. Green tripe has a low PH (higher acidity) which aids digestion. It also has the wonderful calcium to phosphorus ratio of 1:1 !! You can buy canned green tripe (available on-line) but I don’t believe the nutritional value is as good.

About twice a week the dogs get fish, preferably fresh or frozen whole. The heads and innards contain valuable oils and nutrients that fillets and canned fish don’t provide as well. I buy frozen whole sardines at the grocery store and serve one fish (approximately 6 inches long) each, including the head; (I do take the tail off because it’s sharp although this is not necessary for bigger dogs). I also buy pollock fillets which are cleaner and not as smelly. If I’ve forgotten to defrost something or am in a hurry, I will serve canned fish (jack mackerel, sardines), rinsed well to get rid of excess salt. Just make sure you buy the fish canned in water or brine (rinse VERY well) and not some other sauce! A good mix of fish is recommended to minimize intake of contaminants (lead, mercury, etc.). Avoid Pacific Northwest Salmon as it can cause acute bowel problems. Also avoid Atlantic salmon; the wild stuff is endangered and the farmed stuff is not only lacking in nutrients but full of parasites and high toxic levels (PCBs, etc.).

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[Pugpillow]

I don’t recommend serving a mixture of kibble and raw food, especially not at the same meal. Some experts say that the PH levels necessary in the stomach for digestion are different for kibble and raw so one or the other will not be efficiently processed. However, I would rather you serve both kibble and raw than not feed raw at all! I’ve given up kibble completely because I’m serving a balanced raw diet. I also avoid cooking meat; experts say that the chemistry of meat changes with heat and the result is tantamount to serving your dog a form of polymer (plastic) that their digestive system can’t process. Another reason to avoid kibble which is heat-processed. A big benefit to feeding your own raw mixture is the reduced risk of potentially fatal contamination as seen in commercial pet food recalls.

If you’re new to raw feeding, monitor for constipation or really hard stools (very hard or white stools suggests you’re feeding too much ingested bones) and feed pure pumpkin and/or dehydrated chicken livers to loosen things up. Their bodies will adapt over time. It is also a good idea to get a blood workup at your annual vet visit. It may take a few weeks to see a difference. In the meantime, your pup may be expelling toxins from previous food and meds, especially if they’ve been exposed to either for a long time. This can show up in eye goop, mucous-covered stools, etc. You can aid this detoxification by adding Ultimate Liver Cleanse or Milk Thistle to the slop (both available at health food stores and some supermarkets). Be patient and give it at least a month or better, two months. In my experience the results of raw are fantastic – better overall health, shinier coat, better weight control (even though they’re eating more), fewer stools and management of allergies. I love it and so do my dogs!

[GingerSnap]

Thanks for making this easier to find, Hilary!

[PugMomto3]

what is blue powder treatment?

[Pugpillow]

The best ear cleaning stuff in the world, IMO. Check it out here: http://www.itsfortheanimals.com/BLUE.HTM

[Krystal]

I've got a 14 week old puppy that I switched over to Honest Kitchen (our fridge is too small to freeze anything to do regular raw!) and we have recreational raw bones for him. But I just can't wrap my brain around eat raw bones......the HK people say I can replace meals with raw meaty bones, but I just can't bring myself to throw a chicken wing in his crate. I fear choking!!

Does this fear go away after the first time? His leaking anal glands and constant itching all have stopped since the switch

[Pugpillow]

I've got a 14 week old puppy that I switched over to Honest Kitchen (our fridge is too small to freeze anything to do regular raw!) and we have recreational raw bones for him. But I just can't wrap my brain around eat raw bones......the HK people say I can replace meals with raw meaty bones, but I just can't bring myself to throw a chicken wing in his crate. I fear choking!!

Does this fear go away after the first time? His leaking anal glands and constant itching all have stopped since the switch

No, the fear never goes away. You have to watch them like a hawk so don't just "throw a chicken wing in his crate". I also watch my Betsy like a hawk when she is eating anything. She could choke on kibble.

Make sure that the food you are giving is designed for a puppy. They have very different nutritional needs than an adult. For instance, bone development may be compromised if they are fed adult food. There should be a puppy version of the raw.

Glad the itch and leaking have subsided.

[PugMomto3]

Thanks for the link on the blue pwder treatment.

Quick question: Since this stain, do you treat them out side? I am thinking if I did this in the laundry room, where I usually groom, if they shook their little heads it would go all over?

Also, can this be used on the skin for yeast?

[jwestoverpug]

I've got a 14 week old puppy that I switched over to Honest Kitchen (our fridge is too small to freeze anything to do regular raw!) and we have recreational raw bones for him. But I just can't wrap my brain around eat raw bones......the HK people say I can replace meals with raw meaty bones, but I just can't bring myself to throw a chicken wing in his crate. I fear choking!!

Does this fear go away after the first time? His leaking anal glands and constant itching all have stopped since the switch

I actually do just toss a piece of chicken (wing, neck or back) or a whole sardine in their crates, but I stay right in the room with them. None of mine have ever had any trouble, it's amazing how they just crunch though everything.

From what I've read and according to a holistic vet that I consulted with a typical raw diet is fine for puppies and the whole concept of "puppy food" was created by the pet food industry. Abby ate pretty much the same thing as my adult pugs since she was 10 weeks old, the difference was I gave her a squirt of fish oil and the others got coconut oil (fish oil is supposed to be important for brain development).